Pure luxury: lace, embroidery and appliqué. The collection had an 18th Century influence, harking back to those iconic figures like Marie Antoinette.
Designers Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri presented a beautifully delicate collection in the grandeur setting of the salons of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild. The models elegantly draped in floor sweeping gowns, scattered in poesy prints, organza lace cutouts, with high-embroidered necklines, and taffeta fabrics, which had an Antique appearance. A dreamy and ethereal collection.
Christian Dior
Christian Dior has a new man in charge, Bill Gaytten, who reverted the charm back to the brands origins and history of Dior’s ‘New look’, cinched waists, peplum jackets, and exquisitely constructed tailoring. Pleats a plenty, mock-croc leather accents and even a dosage of checks and flower prints made up the beautifully crafted creations.
"All the structure of iconic Dior, thanks to lots of fittings, but all of it see-through," - Bill Gaytten
Chanel
“Welcome to Air Chanel, we are ready for take off”…
Renown for incredible set designs the Chanel runaway was an aircraft/ space shuttle… referencing the old school glamour of Pan Am perhaps?
With 150 different shades of blue the drop waist relaxed looks had an elegant twist with beautiful shimmering fabrics, 1920’s foundation with futuristic cuts and silhouette. Chanel went to infinity and beyond.
Ellie Saab
Delicate, dainty and pretty were the orders of the day at Ellie Saab. You can see why his dresses are a firm favourite with the celebs on the red carpet, they are feminine yet not too girly, they are figure flattering and well-designed. You could easily imagine every single pastel shade of gown that was presented, as a possible Oscars candidate.
What an interesting collection, one which caught the eye from the other Spring couture offerings, wearable tailored pieces with a sharp military edge, diffused with delicate flowing print dresses and blouses. Each look was carefully thought-out, a classic item for every woman’s wardrobe. Accents of fur and cosy snoods reminded us of vintage trimmings, which can add a unique touch to simplistic garment as Bouchra Jarrar proved.
Giambattista Valli
Grown-up glamour maximised; a palette of black, creams and splashing of fuchsia. See-through fabrics entice and the sparkles add a certain type of flirtatious Hollywood glam. Clusters of flowers applied different dimensions to simplistic shapes.
Givenchy
The artistry of Ricardo Tisci collection was evident, with highly executed pieces some of which had been claimed to take up to 350 hours to complete. Tisci inspirations were apparently a few obscure twenties films: 1927 Fritz Lang movie Metropolis and 1924's Aelita: Queen of Mars. The influence of which were most clearly defined with the Art Deco embellishments on the dresses.
Alexis Mabille
Extravagant, exotic hued flowerbomb explosion, the models resembled some sort of icons of a perfume promotion, painted faces to match their assemble.
“There was scarcely an outfit that wouldn't have worked a miracle in a Hollywood film from the thirties or forties or fifties that called for the heroine to wear "fashion”. ” – Style.com
Designer Mabille is said to have been inspired by these two iconic photographs for the collection:
Model Lisa Fonssagrives Photo Louise Dahl Wolf, Vogue, Jan 1963
Photo Patrick Demarchelier ˜ Christy Turlington, British Vogue, New York, February 1992
Christy Turlington by Patrick Demarchelier also provided a bit of background and the instant referencing becomes clear when looking at the collection.
A relatively new line added to the Armani portfolio has seen many outings already by the stars at various award do’s. The spring collection had a futuristic mixture of fabrics and invented seas of the underworld colours, representing the theme of metamorphosis with particular emphasis on the snake.
Our money is on Jessica Chastain wearing Armani Privé for the Oscars considering she found out about her nomination on the front row.
Versace
Images via: Style.com
This was the first outing on the Paris Couture schedule since 2004 for Atelier Versace range. The dresses are designed to wow and accentuate the figure, while cleverly hidden panels illusionary contour, while added inserts changes the figure in various places on the hips and waist.
“Evoked Thierry Mugler's eighties glory days on the one hand and the movie Metropolis on the other” – Style.com
Retro underpinnings with a full contemporary slant.
Jean Paul Gaultier
JPG paid the ultimate Homage to late Miss Amy Winehouse, as models impersonated her recognisable style, which of course has prominent pin-up 50’s roots. Beehives, flicking eye make-up and pencil skirts. The collection was full of bright acid colours and figures cinched by Mr. Pearls wonderful corset creations.
